Dr. Loosen Riesling Spätlese Graacher Himmelreich 2023

At the night of the winter solstice, we reach the shortest span of daylight in the northern hemisphere. On the surface, it sounds like the most desolate point of the year, particularly for those whose emotions are closely tied to the rhythm of the seasons. Yet the quiet consolation is that from this point onward, daylight gradually returns. Sunrise comes earlier and sunset lingers longer. Since starting work, however, I have found myself increasingly absorbed by professional demands, paying little attention to the changing light outside, which in retrospect feels like a genuine loss.

The winter solstice carries particular significance in Chinese tradition. It is a time for extended families to gather for a substantial meal, reaffirming kinship and continuity. Against the backdrop of the recent devastating fire tragedy in Hong Kong, which claimed over a hundred lives, the notion of family gathering feels especially fragile and precious. Sharing a table becomes more than ritual; it becomes reassurance.

That evening’s dinner was hosted warmly by my uncle’s family and friends. The table was generous and comforting, featuring abalone, oyster mushrooms, salmon, char siu, prawn vermicelli with soy sauce in the traditional Chinese style, rib bone soup, and wonton soup. Given the umami-rich and texturally diverse nature of the meal, Riesling felt like the most suitable pairing for this setting.

It had been a long time since I last opened a cork-sealed bottle. The initial release carried a subtle oaky cork aroma, which felt unexpectedly engaging and nostalgic.

Once poured into the glass, the wine presented aromas of apple, pear, and floral notes, with an overall fresh fruit profile. Visually, there were no discernible legs, consistent with its low alcohol content (8.5%).

On the first few sips, the wine was immediately expressive, delivering bright fruit intensity with a lightly fizzy impression. The high acidity was striking, provoking salivation and giving a clean, mouth-watering sensation. It felt light, sharply refreshing, and precise. As an aperitif, it performed exceptionally well, effectively priming the palate for the dishes that followed.

With deeper tasting, the fruit profile evolved towards tropical fruit, most notably pineapple, adding an extra layer beyond the initial freshness.

The finish was persistent and consistent, with clear notes of pear and peach lingering in the aftertaste. The sweetness remained well balanced by acidity, avoiding heaviness and pairing comfortably with savoury and umami-driven dishes. It would also perform exceptionally well alongside curry, where its acidity and residual sugar would temper spice and enhance aromatic depth.

In reflection, I expected to find more minerality, lemon, or lime notes, which I did not clearly identify. This may reflect a limitation of my palate rather than the wine itself, possibly influenced by regular daily intake of vitamin C through lemon. Compared to my previous Riesling experiences, this bottle represented a clear step up, offering added layers of complexity and structure.

Looking ahead, this tasting encourages further exploration of Rieslings from France or other regions, or expressions with greater aromatic and textural depth, to continue developing and refining my appreciation of the grape.

Note: This tasting note was refined with the assistance of AI (ChatGPT), used for language polishing and structural clarity.